Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Dubrovnik: Pinch Me, I'm Dreaming

Since I am having issues loading images, I have uploaded some images to my Picasa account. You should be able to view with the following link:
https://picasaweb.google.com/tina.vasinda/Europe2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCMP9sMLjgfPKjQE#

I almost missed out on a bus to this amazing city. The website for bus tickets from Zagreb to Dubrovnik said they would need to be purchased on site. So even though I have preferred to error on the side of overly prepared, I went with it. Guess what! When I arrived in Zagreb, not only was the bus leaving at 21:00 full, but also the 22:30 and the following day at 16:00. There was nothing! I asked the woman at the ticket counter what I could do, she told me to go to the gate and ask the bus driver if there was by chance an opening. So that is what I did....and I got a resounding no, there is no room. OMG! I told him I didn't care if I was sitting on the stairs, I would. He chuckled and then realized I was serious, so he went to work talking to the other people coordinating the buses to Dubrovnik. I, on the other hand, sent a little message to the big man for a little assistance. It all worked. I got a spot!!!

So, now I am in Dubrovnik and I didn't have to sit on the stairs of the bus to get here. It is literally like I have died and gone to paradise. So unbelievable that less than 15 years ago, this area was ravaged by war. Croatia has fought hard for its independence.

I spent today familiarizing myself and getting too much sun. No matter how much sunscreen I put on, it still ate me alive. Well worth it. The scenery is amazing, the beaches are beautiful. There are numerous islands scattered about that daily excursions can be taken to. The old town is gorgeous as well. I have two more full days here and I plan to live it up, and get to know this place. I cannot believe I have not heard more about this place prior to this trip. So incredible. Now to decide what there is time for...cable car to the top of the mountain, island excursion, 1/2 day kayak around the islands, of course the wall tour. Hmm. :)

Monday, June 20, 2011

Breakups are Difficult

Dear Nutella,

The past several weeks have been amazing. You always seem to be there for me. I am afraid, however, that this is becoming a co-dependent relationship. It is me, not you. Also, I have been starting to see Gelato since it has been getting warmer and that is going great. Gelato changes to whatever I need and cools me down when things get too hot. I will miss you.

Sincerely,
Tina

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Budapest: Why not?

This stop was not one of the originally intended stops during the venture through Europe, but when 4 people in different and separate conversations within 2 hours list this as a 'do not miss' destination, I listened. And I am so glad I did. The city has so much to offer, and beautiful vistas. The large hills, Danube river, and city are enough, but add the combination of a church and hospital set in a cave, the Jewish quarter, Sunday open air markets, and the thermal baths, and it is like hitting the jackpot.

Everywhere within the city is a beautiful and ornate building. The styles of construction are so drastically different: art nouveau (and a lot of it), gothic, moorish, classic, bauhaus...palaces, parks, churches, synagogues, museums. This place is amazing.

My first night, I took a walk to the Syéchenyi Chain Bridge upon the request of Rebeka from the hostel. Built in the 1840's, this suspension bridge created the link of Buda and Pest, was the first bridge to cross the Danube, and was the longest bridge constructed up to that time.

The intent of the trip to the bridge was to ascend to the top of the tunnel that passed through the hill to photograph, sketch, and be there to see the bridge light up at 9 pm from a glorified position on the hill. I got more than I bargained for. As I sat there sketching and trying to ignore the couple making out on the bench next to me (awkward) I noticed that the car traffic was no longer crossing the bridge and police had secured the bridge and the roundabout. When a man arrived with a camera much larger than the average avid tourist, I found a better spot to see what was happening.

Across the river, from behind the buildings, a stream of little torches started pouring out and across the bridge. I was now amidst a demonstration. Not to worry though. Pretty much the safest protest to be a part of. Firefighters and policemen protesting the elimination of their pensions. The sight of the people crossing the lit bridge with their torches was really beautiful. (There is a pic, but I am unable to post pictures at the moment.)

The two people that helped me figure out what was going on with the protest, then offered to show me around some of the city sights at night. It was pretty cool to get a local tour by really nice people who seemed to know a lot about the majority of the monuments. We went to the City Park, by the Opera and the Parliament and then to a Turkish place to eat. The food was amazingly tasty and so cheap. 900 forents ($4.50) for enough lamb kabob to feed me for 2 days.

The next day, I went and enjoyed the thermal baths. The water comes out of the springs too hot for humans, so it is mixed with cooler water. Imagine an amazing, old, mosaic building with indoor and outdoor baths\pools, hot and cool, saunas, steam showers, and a wave pool. Just what the doctor ordered. My feet (after traveling for 3 weeks by foot) were very pleased as well.

Today was a day of open air markets, sight-seeing, and a jog through the City Park. I saw the Parliament in its huge gothic gloriousness, St. Stephan's Church (same name as the cathedral in Vienna, but two very different styles), The Great Synagogue, Elizabeth Park, and literally unlimited beautiful buildings. I often prefer the buildings in disrepair more than those well preserved. I saw one block that had old bullet marks all over the facade. That sight was after the visit to the synagogue where the history of the persecution of Jews and their remembrance were on display. It is unbelievable to imagine in this currently civilized city. Living in a place with so much destruction, hate and terror such a short time ago. It made for a sobering afternoon.

I am now at the hostel. Ready for another day and a half here before catching the train and bus to Dubrovnik, Croatia. Another stop not on the original schedule, but I figure the odds of making a stop in Croatia after this trip are limited, so Dubrovnik, here I come.

Vienna

Voted world's most livable city, there is no question why. First and foremost, of all the cities I have visited, this has felt the most secure for a large city. It has quite a lot to offer: history, museums, parks, palaces and palatial gardens, night life and friendly people. Upon checking into the hostel, I met 4 fun and friendly girls from Guadalajara, Mexico, quick to invite me as an honorary group member.

We took a trip to the old town, visited St. Stephan's Cathedral, street performers, grabbed some food from a street vendor and enjoyed teasing eachother. St. Stephan's was very interesting. Knowing that the building would likely sustain damage during WWII, the valuable artifacts and stained glass windows were carefully removed and preserved below for safekeeping. The efforts would not save the original windows. Attacks on surrounding buildings set the roof of the cathedral ablaze and almost all the original windows were destroyed. They are now replaced with cheap glass windows with colored plastic film strewn across it. It makes for a cheap look, but the effect of the sun shining through the plastic makes for dramatic and prismatic effects on the grey interior. The roof of the church, also destroyed, was replaced by a beautiful and colorful tile roof.

There are several palaces within Vienna. The most memorable for me was Schőnbrunn Palace. While we were not able to venture through the 1,441 rooms it offered, we were able to hike up through the palace gardens to the monumental gate which offered a stunning view of the city.

Tuesday night, we joined to make a team of 11 with the hostel employee that took a trip to the city to an electronic club located in an abandoned subway station. It was split in two components, an outdoor relaxation area by the Danube River and an interior dance area. One of Vienna's most infamous underground club, Flex was a fun time, even on a Tuesday.

During our walk home, we saw much of the city that we did not see during the day and got a history lesson from the hostel employee discussing the Parliament, Museum Quarter, Hitler speeches, etc. It was good to get a local perspective of the area.

The next day, after the girls gave farewell hugs I set out alone for awhile. Having the Kindle with the history of the locations has made the experience much more rich than blindly wandering through the cities. I set up in a park near the Hamburg Palace, read more about Vienna and met two more people. One a guy from California, playing guitar to make money and travel Europe, and the other a local female. They both had interesting perspectives on life and humanity which made for more fun conversation.  Questions at hand, why do people come to a city and visit H&M when they are everywhere, and how street graffiti and art can provide lessons on humanity.

I searched for an art scene outside of the museums, but there appears to be little in Vienna proper.

One of my favorites for the day, frozen Greek yogurt gelato with mango swirl in the park!

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Romanced by Prague


Prague. Oh how I love thee. The ride from Berlin to Prague went from a flat terrain to a beautiful, hilly, rocky landscape. People have constructed their villages where they could. On top of cliffs, and in deep valleys. It made for an amazing train ride.

Train Ride from Berlin to Prague
Prague itself is beautiful. Like most cities, there are areas to be avoided. Mainly near the train station, but the city is the perfect combination on what God has created and what man has made of those things. The landscape, buildings, everything was great. Not to mention it was a bit cheaper than my previous locations. The city is well preserved since the wars did not wreak havok on the original design. The streets and sidewalks throughout are hand-laid cobble stones. The amount of labor it must have taken (and still does) is incredible to me. I love when the grass peaks up between them. Many of the streets are intimately narrow.

Near the Palace overlooking Prague


The hostel location was more than ideal, it was perfect. It was literally right in the heart of the Old Town. One of the best people watching places. Between all the tourists, Ghost tours, pub crawl groups, 6 person table bike flying downhill, smelling the ham on the spicket, and the locals, there is never a dull moment. It was good to grab a beer with the people I met at the hostel, and watch the sights in the square. Even when it rained the first night, we just pulled up shop under an overhang and watched. I had a great time meeting Dylan and Brittany from California and Armand from Dallas within the days.

Jesus, the Savior of Humanity. Kutna Hora
After Brittany and Dylan took off after the four of us had breakfast, Armand and I thought we would check out the bone church an hour from Prague in Kutna Hora. The interiors of this building is decorated with columns, pyramids, crests, and a chandellier made entirely of human bones. I thought it would be chilling, but the narrative on it was quite nice. IHS is constructed of bones, meaning (Jesus, the Savior of Humanity). After reading that and knowing that this was the result of over 40,000 who died from the plague, there were no chills to be had. It was mostly amazing, interesting, and kind of nice to know that these bodies were cared for enough that something was done with them after they had all died.

 
Strahov Monastary, Theological Hall. Look at those frescos!
Varying types of religious materialization. From the bones of Kutna Hora to the Theological Hall of the Strahov Monastery, this 17th century library housed many copies of the bible translated into different languages. The monastery also included curiousities and interests of the time. The library is very well preserved and the frescos were gorgeous.

Within the Palace confines, there were well preserved 17th century houses. The people lived so simply and in such small quarters.

Preserved  17th Century Houses on the Golden Road, Palace property



Old Town Square (Hostel in the alley on the left of church)






















 
After spending a few days with great company, I tackled the last day (Sunday) alone. It was nice to go at my own pace depending on my mood. I made it back up to the palace, cathedral, monastery, through the park to the giant metronome and skater park, down through the beer garden and to the hostel in time to go to dinner with three new lasses from Scotland.  We enjoyed some local food and beer at Pivovarsky Dum. If you ever find yourself in Prague, do not miss this place. It was the best food I have had so far and was extremely reasonable in price. 


Next I am off to Vienna. I am excited to see more.



Monday, June 6, 2011

Berlin

Now comes Berlin. This. City. Is. Huge. I spent all day walking around and only saw a bit of it. I started by the Bahnof Zoo, headed through the Tiergarten, up past the Victory column, to the Reichstag (currently under high alert for fears of terrorism), Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, and the Dom. The Museum for the German people was crazy. The annex by IM Pei was well done and simple in contrast to the old building. The museum and all the sights provided for a lot of time and reflection on how people treat eachother. I don't think I will ever understand. Tomorrow will include a trip up to the Philharmonie (orchestra hall) and some of the museums that are typically closed on Mondays.

I think Wednesday, however, merits a day off. Going to find a beach and bring my 'book' and relax before hopping the train to Prague. There is still a portion of the wall that is up on my way to the beach, so it will not be a totally mindless day.

By the way, for those of you considering travel where several guidebooks will be necessary, my Kindle has been essential in saving space and weight.

For those of you who know me well, and most of you do, the language barrier has provided A LOT of time for silent reflection, completely out of character to be quiet so long in a daz. It has been really nice though. Hopefully if I feel the need to burst out and start talking, there is someone around to make conversation with.

By and large, people in all cities have been nice. Whether they understand or not. I don't typically need to ask for to much, so I suppose that helps. The hostels have been not at all like the scary movie that half of my so-called friends said I should watch prior to the trip. Jerks. ;) They have been clean and secure and in really great locations.

I am about to run out of time on the internet, so until next time.

P.S. I think there was a typo in the previous post. Should have been Kolumba in cologne.

Saturday, June 4, 2011

One day in Köln

A lot has happened in such a short amount of time. After St. Paul's Cathedral, there were trips to WESTMINSTER ABBEY!!! Regent Street, Notting Hill, Portabello Market, Parliament and Big Ben, Tate Britain, Buckingham Palace,Tate Modern, and Somerset House to watch a captivating conversation about Architecture and Poetry that Alena Sakalouski Johnson presented in as well. So much!

My trip in London was capped off nicely. While waiting to book my ticket to the ferry out of the UK to the Netherlands, I met a group of 4 that were headed to Amsterdam and a guy on holiday from the UK. We decided it would be a good idea to try to make the most of the ferry ride by hanging out as a group and playing cards. It worked. We had a great time.

The ferry was like a cruise ship with all the spoils. The only perk I was extremely excited about was the private room, with a pristinely clean bathroom and two fluffy pillows!

When we arrived to Höek van Holland, we all mostly split up. The guy from the UK and I were heading in the same direction, so we hopped the train and had informative conversations until we split. He understands the ins and outs of EU travel more than I do.

Now I am in Köln (Cologne) Germany. It is beautiful. I went to two starkly contrasted buildings today that were equally captivating: Cologne Cathedral and Kolumbo Museum (the latter by Peter Zumthor). There is also a nice Old Köln as well. The parks were just bustling with people. The water features in both London and Köln tend to be the family play zones during the warmer months. It is so heartwarming to see all the families and people spending time together outdoors.

Tomorrow I have a couple more places I would like to visit before catching my train to Berlin. I will have to try to upload pictures later.

Bye until then.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Ferry: Think Cruise Ship not ferry

I just arrived in Hoek van Holland this morning and will be catching the train to Cologne via Rotterdam. All is well. This ferry was like a dream with a private room and hot breakfast. Time to run!