This stop was not one of the originally intended stops during the venture through Europe, but when 4 people in different and separate conversations within 2 hours list this as a 'do not miss' destination, I listened. And I am so glad I did. The city has so much to offer, and beautiful vistas. The large hills, Danube river, and city are enough, but add the combination of a church and hospital set in a cave, the Jewish quarter, Sunday open air markets, and the thermal baths, and it is like hitting the jackpot.
Everywhere within the city is a beautiful and ornate building. The styles of construction are so drastically different: art nouveau (and a lot of it), gothic, moorish, classic, bauhaus...palaces, parks, churches, synagogues, museums. This place is amazing.
My first night, I took a walk to the Syéchenyi Chain Bridge upon the request of Rebeka from the hostel. Built in the 1840's, this suspension bridge created the link of Buda and Pest, was the first bridge to cross the Danube, and was the longest bridge constructed up to that time.
The intent of the trip to the bridge was to ascend to the top of the tunnel that passed through the hill to photograph, sketch, and be there to see the bridge light up at 9 pm from a glorified position on the hill. I got more than I bargained for. As I sat there sketching and trying to ignore the couple making out on the bench next to me (awkward) I noticed that the car traffic was no longer crossing the bridge and police had secured the bridge and the roundabout. When a man arrived with a camera much larger than the average avid tourist, I found a better spot to see what was happening.
Across the river, from behind the buildings, a stream of little torches started pouring out and across the bridge. I was now amidst a demonstration. Not to worry though. Pretty much the safest protest to be a part of. Firefighters and policemen protesting the elimination of their pensions. The sight of the people crossing the lit bridge with their torches was really beautiful. (There is a pic, but I am unable to post pictures at the moment.)
The two people that helped me figure out what was going on with the protest, then offered to show me around some of the city sights at night. It was pretty cool to get a local tour by really nice people who seemed to know a lot about the majority of the monuments. We went to the City Park, by the Opera and the Parliament and then to a Turkish place to eat. The food was amazingly tasty and so cheap. 900 forents ($4.50) for enough lamb kabob to feed me for 2 days.
The next day, I went and enjoyed the thermal baths. The water comes out of the springs too hot for humans, so it is mixed with cooler water. Imagine an amazing, old, mosaic building with indoor and outdoor baths\pools, hot and cool, saunas, steam showers, and a wave pool. Just what the doctor ordered. My feet (after traveling for 3 weeks by foot) were very pleased as well.
Today was a day of open air markets, sight-seeing, and a jog through the City Park. I saw the Parliament in its huge gothic gloriousness, St. Stephan's Church (same name as the cathedral in Vienna, but two very different styles), The Great Synagogue, Elizabeth Park, and literally unlimited beautiful buildings. I often prefer the buildings in disrepair more than those well preserved. I saw one block that had old bullet marks all over the facade. That sight was after the visit to the synagogue where the history of the persecution of Jews and their remembrance were on display. It is unbelievable to imagine in this currently civilized city. Living in a place with so much destruction, hate and terror such a short time ago. It made for a sobering afternoon.
I am now at the hostel. Ready for another day and a half here before catching the train and bus to Dubrovnik, Croatia. Another stop not on the original schedule, but I figure the odds of making a stop in Croatia after this trip are limited, so Dubrovnik, here I come.
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